Lisa and Chris Binns
CO-FOUNDERS of STUSH IN THE BUSH
When you think of Jamaican cuisine, what comes to mind? Jerk chicken served with a side of reggae in bustling Kingston, or lobster on the palm-fringed beaches of Montego Bay? Off the tourist trail, 2,000 feet above sea level in the village of Free Hill, there’s something unexpected being cooked up. There, in a regenerative ital garden, lush with coconut trees, pineapples, avocado, citrus trees, and herbs, husband-and-wife team Lisa and Chris Binns have been cultivating a creative culinary experience rooted in ital – the natural, plant-based diet of the Rastafari Livity.
An immersive, farm-to-table dining experience that spans eight courses of thoughtfully curated “plant magic”, Stush in the Bush is much more than a restaurant, says Lisa. “It’s about our connection to food, where we live and our lifestyle. It’s dining, but it is also walking in the garden with Chris. It’s conversations. It’s food inspiration.” From the ingredients to the dinnerware, placemats and art hanging on the walls of the dining area, Stush in the Bush celebrates all things local and seasonal.
The brand name reflects the couple’s backstory: two months after meeting Rastafari farmer Chris, former educator Lisa uprooted herself from New York City life (“stush” Jamaican slang for fancy) to move to Chris’ farm in the Free Hill community, passed down through generations. While living off the land, Lisa began creating vinaigrettes, jams, and pepper sauces from the farm’s bounty of fruits and vegetables – and Stush in the Bush was born. When people started asking to visit and taste the products in situ, “It was a very natural progression to a farm to table dining experience,” says Lisa.
Initially, the business operated on the concept of a studio apartment. “It was, and still is, our home first,” says Lisa. They never dreamed that it would organically transform from serving “sip” [vegetable soup] alongside freshly baked bread to clientele wanting to experience a Jamaican farm, to what it is now. Guests can enjoy a plant-based, eight-course meal made from scratch, including plantain chips, sweet potato and pineapple croquettes, gourmet greens, plant-based cheeses, and Lisa’s perennially popular “Blow Fyah” - a scotch bonnet pepper paste. “We craft the menu based on what we’re growing in our garden and also what’s in season on the island,” explains Chris, recalling the traditional “regenerative” farming methods of his childhood.
Since 2014, Stush in the Bush has grown to encompass a wellness brunch offering Pilates and yoga classes, and with one guest cabin complete, there are plans to expand the accommodation. A processing centre for their product line is also in development. But at the heart of the business remains self-sustainability, a commitment to the earth and of course love and affection, the first two ingredients on every jar and bottle.
The Binns call themselves locavores, and that commitment extends beyond food, into community. All their staff are local, including young mothers whom they’ve taken under their wing and trained. “It’s always wonderful to see young people flourish,” says Lisa. “Our goal has always been ‘lift as you climb’, and the more growth we experience, the more, we hope, that [our community] is able to do as well.”
Interview by: Selena Schleh